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A Guide to Retinoids

Guide to Retinoids

What are retinoids?

Vitamin A is an essential nutrient for maintaining the healthy function of our eyes, skin, hair, teeth, gums, and various body tissues and glands. Vitamin A is an antioxidant with exfoliating properties and aids in the functioning and repair of skin cells, skin’s elasticity, and overall firmness.

This nutrient is found in natural food sources such as liver, dairy products, egg yolks, yellow or orange fruits and vegetables, and of course carrots.

How are Retinoids useful in skin care?

Vitamin A (Retinoids) are used topically to treat acne, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, sun damage, and many other skin conditions. Ranging from over-the-counter to prescription creams, the concentration of retinoids varies depending on whether they’re used as a cosmetic or a drug.

Due to retinoids being sun-sensitizing, it is recommended to apply at night, and it is crucial to use SPF during the day. If irritation occurs, reduce frequency at night to every other night or every third night. Side effects from retinoids include dryness, peeling, redness, photosensitivity, and potential purging (breakouts). The side effects of prescription retinoids must be monitored by a dermatologist.

Types of Retinoids and Strength Levels: From Gentle to Strong

Retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate are esters. They are the mildest of the Retinoid family.
Retinyl Esters – Best for extremely sensitive skin types, extremely dry skin, or beginners.

Retinol is an alcohol and is the most used in over-the-counter skincare cosmetics.
Retinol – Best for oily or combination skin types. Most popular choice.

Retinal or Retinaldehyde is the strongest level of the retinoids used in cosmetics. Only undergoes one conversion to become retinoic acid
Retinal/Retinaldehyde – Best for normal skin, mature skin. Faster-acting and stronger than retinol, but gentler than prescription-strength tretinoin.

Retinoic Acid (tretinoin, tazarotene, or adapalene) is a prescription topical ointment used for the treatment of acne. It also aids in the skin becoming plumper, smoother, and more resilient by stimulating collagen synthesis.

Retinoic Acid – Best for resilient/mature skin or severe acne-prone skin. Helps to treat deep wrinkles, stubborn hyperpigmentation, and severe acne. (Pure retinoic acid; works without needing conversion)

How do retinoids work?

Retinoids convert from different forms of vitamin A (retinoids) and break down to turn into retinoic acid. Retinoic acid is the active form that binds to skin cells receptors.

The Conversion Steps – the more steps, the gentler the action

Retinyl Esters (retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate): Require three conversion steps (turning into retinol, then retinaldehyde, and finally retinoic acid). They are the gentlest.
Retinol: Requires two conversion steps (first oxidizing into retinaldehyde, then into retinoic acid).
Retinaldehyde (Retinal): Requires only one conversion step (oxidizing directly into retinoic acid). It works faster than retinol and retinyl esters.
Retinoic Acid (Tretinoin): Requires zero conversion steps because it is already in the active form. It offers immediate potency but has a higher risk of irritation, redness, and peeling

Retinoids available in our practice:

Retinyl Esters:
*Cible Skin Serum Le Power

Great for all skin types, especially drier or sensitive skin.

Encapsulated retinyl palmitate, tripeptide-5, biomimetic ceramide, vitamin E and hyaluronic acid work on multiple layers of the skin to improve the appearance of aging.

Retinols:
*Sente Bio Complete Serum

Best for oilier, combination or more mature skin types.

A lightweight retinoid that combines the power of Heparan Sulfate Analog (HSA). The slow release of the retinoid in conjunction with the HSA improves the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and promotes smoother, younger-looking skin.

*Sente Even Tone Retinol Cream 0.5%:

Best for skin that has existing stubborn hyperpigmentation.

This retinol formulation includes Heparan Sulfate Analog (HSA), Dermatan Sulfate Analog (DSA) and Chondroitin Sulfate (CSA). This combination helps diminish the
appearance of discoloration while simultaneously improving texture and tone.

* Heparan Sulfate Analog (HSA), Dermatan Sulfate Analog (DSA) and Chondroitin Sulfate (CSA) are all glycosaminoglycans (GAG), that are found in the skin’s extracellular matrix. Glycosaminoglycans regulate hydration, strengthen the skin barrier, and reduce inflammation.

*Zo Skin Health Retinol Skin Brightener 0.5%:

This potent blend is best for those more experienced using retinol with a focus on targeting discoloration.

This encapsulated retinol-based solution is designed to improve uneven tone and texture. It is formulated with Niacinamide, vitamin C, tranexamic acid, glucosamine and peptides.

Retinal/Retinaldehyde:

*Avène Retrinal 0.05%

Suitable for sensitive skin and drier skin types.

High-performance ingredients Retinaldehyde, Hyaluronic Acid, Avene Thermal Spring Water. Reduces the appearance of wrinkles, enhances hydration and elasticity.

*Avène Retrinal 0.1%

Suitable for all skin types. Best for more mature skin.

High-performance ingredients with a higher concentration of Retinaldehyde to correct wrinkles and improve firmness. Hyaluronic Acid and Avene Thermal Spring Water enhance hydration, elasticity and radiance.

Retinaldehyde, Melatonin and soothing complex come together in this dual-phase facial serum. Retinaldehyde promotes skin turnover, smoothes texture, and reduces fine lines and wrinkles. Melatonin is an indirect antioxidant that stimulates skin’s natural defense against free radical damage. The soothing complex keeps skin hydrated and minimizes dryness.

Retinoic Acid:

*SkinBetter AlphaRet Overnight Cream and Skinbetter Intensive AlphaRet Overnight Cream and Skinbetter Clearing Serum

What makes Skinbetter’s AlphaRet Family so unique is that they created a NEW carrier molecule comprised of Retinoic acid, glycolic acid, and lactic acid.

When AlphaRet penetrates the skin, the AHAs (glycolic and lactic acid) exfoliate what would usually turn into dry, flaky skin, allowing the skin to absorb the retinoic acid while minimizing any irritation.

Glycolic acid, lactic acid, and retinoic acid are also known to stimulate hyaluronic acid synthesis. They work by binding to cellular receptors that activate moisture retention and increase hyaluronic acid in the skin. AlphaRet Clearing Serum works the same way for oilier acneic skin except instead of glycolic acid it’s salicylic.

Tretinoin or Tazarotene: 

Prescription topical retinoic acids are faster acting but cause more unwanted side effects. A prescription is required from one of our dermatologists.

Adapalene:

Differin is an over-the-counter retinoid best for oily, acne-prone skin types with less irritation.